A Burgundian premier cru excursion through the 2012 and 2013 vintages

Here are some notes from a tasting in February looking at some premier crus from the 2012 and 2013 vintages in Burgundy, all tasted blind.  While something of a random walk, my take away observations were that the 2012 vintage had more depth, complexity and fruit, with the 2013s presenting as the more austere of the two vintages.  My notes and some observations on each of the premier cru vineyards follow.  For longer notes on my last trip to the region, see herehere and here.  


Domaine Hereztyn-Mazzini Les Millandes Premier Cru, Morey-Saint-Denis 2013
Morey-Saint-Denis is between Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south and has 20 premier crus.  Les Millandes is one of the larger climats with 4.2 hectares under vine.  In the glass, the 2013 from Hereztyn-Mazzini has aromatics that remind of stems, cherries, almost currants, spice and pepper with time.  It has mid range length on the palate, with crunchy tannins and good length.  Still developing and drink in 5 years.  Very Good


Domaine Parigot Les Vergelesses Premier Cru, Savigny-Les-Beaune 2013
Savigny is one of the largest of the Côte de Beaune communes (383 hectares of vines).  The Vergelesses is a large climat (15.38 hectares) and is reputed as Savigny at its most refined.  In the glass, there are aromas of stems, rose petals and cherries, which unfurl in a tapering manner.  The wine is medium bodied on the palate, with a mineral core.  Blackcurrant leaf and blackcurrants complete proceedings.  Good to Very Good


Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Gevrey-Chambertin 2012
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest of the great communes of the Côte de Nuits and has 26 premier crus.  No particular climat appears claimed on this premier cru wine from Denis Mortet. It has aromas of stems, blackcurrant, cherry and wood spice.  The palate is medium bodied verging on a plumper expression, with good length and balanced acidity.  Good to Very Good


Benjamin Leroux Hospices de Beaune Pommard-Épenots Premier Cru, Pommard 2012
There are 28 premier crus in Pommard, and together with Corton and Volnay, Pommard makes the most serious reds in the Côte de Beaune.  The label does not differentiate between whether the wine is from Les Petits Epenots (15.14 hectares) or Les Grands Epenots (10.15 hectares), but these are some of the best climats in Pommard.  The 2012 is quite subtle in its bearing, with florals and a light rose fragrance.  The palate reminds of stems, with fresh acidity and good length with time in the glass.  Good to Very Good

Pousse d'Or Clos D'Audignac Premier Cru, Volnay 2012
Low level corked.  I wish my taint threshold were higher.  Boo.


Domaine A.F. Gros Les Pézerolles Premier Cru, Pommard 2012
Les Pézerolles is another of the Pommard premier crus.  The 2012 here from Domaine Gros is a deliciously fragrant wine, although was it perhaps relief that it is not corked after the preceding wine?  Floral, green cloves from the oak.  Good length and structured tannins on the palate.  Will last.  Good to Very Good

***

And finally...


Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos Saint-Jacques Premier Cru, Gevrey-Chambertin 2012
This wine is in a separate league to the preceding wines and is from Clos-Saint-Jacques (6.7 hectares in vineyard area), one of Gevrey-Chambertin's 26 premier crus.  It would seem Clos Saint-Jacques is a grand cru in all but name.  The 2012 Clos Saint-Jacques from Armand Rousseau has floral aromatics that remind of fresh roses.  The palate is superbly balanced with quite long length and a mineral complexity that defies easy explanation.  A serious wine worthy of searching out.  Outstanding

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