I've been impressed by what Alex Russell Wines have being doing with alternative varietals in the Riverland wine region. Lagrein is indigenous to the Alto Adige and Trentino wine regions in northern alpine Italy where it can produce deeply coloured, tannic and sometimes bitter reds. These regions in Italy are not as cool climate as might be expected, but it is fair to say the Riverland's climate is a fair bit different. The grape variety is handled really well here. Deeply coloured, the 2015 Lagrein has aromatics of plum skins, iodine and sour dark cherries. The palate is saturated and savoury, with good length on the finish. A real success.
Price: $240 for dozen
Vendors and website: http://www.alexrussellwines.com.au