WS Benwell wrote in 1960 in his book Journey to Wine in Victoria that those who do not know their Tahbilk reds well enough are apt to mistake its intensity of colour for a sign of extreme youth, and that it takes a long time to lighten out. And true to this guidance, decades later, the colour of the 1971 vintage is still strong at 42 years old. The wine wastes little time showing its wares, revealing a distinctive aroma of blackcurrants, intermingled with mint, tobacco and tar. It is almost sui generis, and is a worthy expression of a long standing central Victorian terroir. The palate is medium bodied, but its length is long, and its acid still fresh, with flavours of tobacco, blackcurrants and tar carrying through. An outstanding, complex, complete and interesting wine. History in a bottle. Outstanding
Subscribe: Subscribe to benefit from regular, considered and independent wine reviews from Grape Observer. Please enter your email address in the subscription icon on the right of screen to receive updates by email.