Katnook Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Conservatively, I estimate that I need to write up about 200 wines to catch up. So, regular updates here we come. Katnook's Founder's Block is Katnook Estate's entry level cabernet sauvignon offering. Somewhere between purple and black in colour, the wine opens to an aroma of spices, currants and black olives. On the palate, medium acid, currants and I noticed the alcohol, although it is not particularly high at 13.5%. Good as an entry level type wine. 82 points

Abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Website: Katnook Estate
Tasted: August 2011

An afternoon reflecting on the Rhone Valley

One of the things I miss from my time living in London is travelling to the continent for a weekend and casually enjoying trips that previously would have taken a year's planning from Australia, with jetlag in play on both sides.  The equivalent journey in Australia sees one getting somewhere perhaps different climatically, aesthetically or even possibly culturally, but the similarities generally far outweigh the differences.  So I viewed this tasting, hosted by a friend of mine as something of a success, as it made me think about the wines of the Rhone Valley, and for a moment, the region and my various passes over the years through it.

The wines on tasting were many, which is mostly a positive, because it reinforced the styles of wine produced, and nuances were more easily spotted with repetition.  The other positive, which is perhaps a negative depending upon how one thinks about these matters, is that it made me reflect on the Australian versions of the Rhone grape varieties - not on tasting on this occasion.  My thought was that the benchmarking that is often seen in sometimes misguided deference (or is it just respect?) to certain of France's historically pre-eminent wine regions (i.e. Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy) is somewhat redundant in the case of the Rhone varieties.  Particularly in the case of shiraz, this tasting reinforced my view that the Australian versions are in fact the benchmark with Australia's long history with the grape and its old vines mostly still standing on vinifera roots.  And they tend to be cheaper too.  Nonetheless, this Rhone tasting was a very interesting exercise in wine and place, including a number of white Rhone wines from "red" appellations which are not perhaps thought about so much in Australia.

The whites

The first wine was the Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone (blanc) 2009 (84-85 points), a blend of grenache blanc (60%), clairette (20%) and bourboulenc (20%).  Pale in colour, an aroma of straw, lemon, lime and citrus.  On the palate, straw again, medium length and acid, kernels, almonds, alcohol burn.  Pleasant.  We then moved to the Chateau Mont-Redon Abeille-Fabre Cotes du Rhone (blanc) 2009 (79-80 points), a blend of grenache blanc (50%), roussanne (30%), bourboulenc (10%) and viognier (10%), which proved to be a lesser wine from the same year.  An aroma of peach, grapefruit and straw.  On the palate, lacking in acidity, plain, with kernels and almonds, tasting flat and uninteresting.  The Guigal Cotes du Rhone (blanc) 2009 (84 points), was more like the Chapoutier wine despite its quite different blend: viognier (55%), roussanne (20%), marsanne (10%), clairette (5%), bourboulenc (5%) and grenache blanc (5%) (and, yes, this does remarkably add up to 100%).  Straw, wheat meal and citrus aroma.  Medium length and acid, kernels and citrus on the palate.  Overall, two out of three ain't bad, though there was nothing here that I felt strongly about.

The next set commenced with the Tardieu Laurent Vieilles Vignes Chateauneuf du Pape (blanc) 2008 (88 points), a blend of 50% roussanne and 50% grenache blanc.  Oak was welcomed to the tasting at this point.  Oak and citrus on the nose.  Medium to long length, citrus, almonds and a certain oilyness on the palate.  The best wine so far.  Next was the Delas St Joseph Les Challeys (blanc) 2007 (87 points), a blend of 80% marsanne and 20% roussanne.  An unexpected aroma of burnt sugar and honey, followed by kernels, minerals, stone and straw.  On the palate, kernel like, almonds and medium length.  An interesting wine although I couldn't help thinking that the burnt sugar and honey aroma was not deliberate.  Then followed the Domaine Belle Les Terres Blanches Crozes Hermitage (blanc) 2009 (90 points), a blend of 70% marsanne and 30% roussanne.  This proved to be a very good wine.  Straw, kernels and minerals by way of aroma.  On the palate, nice balance, with medium to long length and a touch of spice.  The set concluded with the Tardieu Laurent Hermitage (blanc) 2006 (95 points), a blend of 85% marsanne and 15% roussanne.  This wine was the best of the set, and indeed, the day's tasting.  Aromas of citrus, peach and oak.  Long length, citrus, oak, almonds and butter on the palate.  An outstanding wine that I do highly recommend.

The final two whites were a Condrieu and a modest vin de pays, both viogniers put together perhaps unfairly.   But as it turned out the latter was far from shamed.  The first wine was the Guigal Condrieu 2002 (90 points) had a distinctive aroma of apricot kernels.  On the palate, apricots, medium length, good body and minerals.  A very good wine to be consumed now.  Its companion was the Michel et Stephane Ogier La Rosine Viognier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes 2006 (87 points), which presented in a new world style, if not new world branding.  A simple aroma of raisins.  On the palate, apricot flowers and medium length.  A good wine that could easily have been from Australia.

My overall inclusion was that there were some very good whites here, though the grenache blanc, roussanne and marsanne blends perhaps do not have mass appeal.  And it did make me think that the almost painfully cheap marsanne produced by Tahbilk in Central Victoria really measures up rather well.

The reds

The reds were more of a mixed bunch.  We started with the Domaine Grand Veneur Clos de Sixte Lirac 2007 (84-85 points), a blend of 50% grenache, 35% syrah and 15% mourvedre.   Cherries, candy, plum, smoke, herbs and an animal note by way of aroma.  On the palate, medium length and rustic.  Next followed the Domaine de Cassan Gigondas 2005 (85 points), a straight grenache.  A seemingly bretty aroma, lavender and animal.  Edgy fruit with medium tannins and lavender on the palate.  Balanced, pleasant, yet only that.  The third in this set was the Chapoutier La Bernardine Chateauneuf du Pape 1999 (84-85 points), which had orange around the rim and was a blend of 65% grenache, 15% syrah and the rest made up of mourvedre, cinsault, picpoul and bourboulenc.  An aroma of raisins and lavender.  The palate was a raisin feast, possessing a fortified wine like taste of sultanas accompanied by medium length.  I was left hoping for more (from the wine, that is, not the wine itself).

The next set commenced with the Delas Marquise de la Tourette Hermitage 2006 (87 points).  This wine while good, never really hit its stride, as might be expected from an appellation as prestigious as Hermitage.  Aromas of lavender, spice, plums in a medium to pronounced intensity expression.  On the palate, medium length, medium to high tannins, lavender and herbs.  The Delas Sainte Epine St Joseph 2006 (85 points) took us down a gear, with its aroma of pepper, plums and more of what appeared to be bretty/animal aromas.  On the palate, plums and medium length.  Pleasant, but perhaps unremarkable.  This was then followed by the wine of the red set, the Tardieu Laurent Vieilles Vignes Cornas 2001 (89 points), with its aroma of plums, spice, animals (brett again?) and stalks.  On the palate, plums, medium length and lavender.  The reds then concluded with the Delas Freres Seigneur de Maugiron Cote Rotie 1997 (82 points), a disappointing wine.  Disappointing because while its aroma of plums and apricots was pleasant, on the palate, it had a burnt character, that was almost smoke like.  Now "cote rotie" does of course mean "roasted".  But rotie ain't brulee either.  A second bottle revealed the same character.  Frustratingly, underneath this character, you could tell it was a very good wine indeed.  Perhaps the wine will evolve past this.  Perhaps it won't.

So I was left with a somewhat mixed feeling about this bracket of wines, something I have experienced before with northern Rhone reds in particular.  In a word, that sometimes awkward commendation comes to mind: the reds were interesting.  My suggestion here is to tread carefully, one bottle at a time.  The gems are not always obvious, something which is mostly not the case with Australian shiraz or grenache for that matter.

Rusty Mutt Shiraz 2006

I don't think I will ever tire of trying new wines or labels, though the former have proven tastier than the latter. This wine, a new wine from winemaker Scott Heidrich, is the "Rusty Mutt" thus joining a rich roll call of unusually named (dare I say South?) Australian wines. Basket pressed and matured in old oak barrels with fruit sourced from McLaren Vale (i.e. it has not been clobbered by oak) you can find it for around $25.



Purple in colour, the wine has a medium to pronounced intensity and rich aroma of white pepper, spices, herbs and to a lesser extent plum jam. On the palate, attractive medium length, spices, and a full bodied, pronounced intensity expression of spiced plum jam supported by medium tannins and seemingly quite firm at times acidity, which I would not wish to see any nervier. A smart and quite typical McLaren Vale shiraz. 87-88 points

Abv: 14%
Price: $25
Source: sample
Website: Rusty Mutt
Tasted: December 2011

Christmas wishes

Well, it's that time of year again: for we antipodeans, increasingly warm weather heralds the arrival of Christmas, as surely as fresh cherries appear in the markets, and queues at the seafood stalls lengthen.  I would like to take this moment to wish you a happy and enjoyable Christmas and new year, and to thank my readers, family and friends and the wineries, importers and retailers who have supported me in writing Grape Observer, which is shortly to commence its third year.

As with wine, I have discovered that I am hoping to achieve balance in writing.  My initial brief wine review style has given way to fuller and hopefully more interesting explanations, and my appreciation of the many diverse styles of wines from and within the world's many regions has increased rather than ossified: in no small part due to the many people I have met and continue to meet with a shared passion for wine.  I hope you continue to enjoy this review in the new year, and thank you for your support.

Penley Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Having just posted a piece which questioned whether Coonawarra needed to do a little more to engage a new generation of wine lovers, I tasted a glorious wine from the region that eloquently challenges those doubts. The wine is Penley Estate's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2000 vintage.




It has an attractive and brooding medium to pronounced intensity aroma of spice, cigar box, oak, leaves and opulent black fruits. I incidentally found that same opulence in another wine from Coonawarra's 2000 vintage, the outstanding Murdock Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, perhaps suggesting a vintage characteristic that is something more than mere co-incidence. On the palate, predominantly blackcurrant flavours were sheathed by medium to long length A stand out wine that will reward seeking out. 93 points.

Abv: 14%
Price: $50 (current vintage)
Website: http://www.penley.com.au/
Tasted: December 2011

Some popular (and less popular) wine posts

As Grape Observer passes its second year, and approaches 700 posts, I thought I'd ask some questions.  Specifically, I wondered, looking back over the last couple of months, which posts were of most and least interest?  Are there any observable trends of note?  And there were some interesting finds.  Not as controversial perhaps as the law suits brewing in the northern hemisphere over certain Spanish wine reviews, but interesting nonetheless.

Popular posts

I'll start with the so-called popular posts (on the basis of what Google tells me has been read the most), which are as follows:

1. A natural wine dinner, naturally;

2. Cabernet Sauvignon - Which clone is that?

3. Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2009, McLaren Vale;

4. d'Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz 2009, McLaren Vale;

5. Sandalford Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Margaret River;

6. Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Reserva 2005, Rioja;

7. Teusner Dog Strangler Mourvedre (aka Mataro) 2010, Barossa Valley;

8. Base Phillip Rosé 2010, Gippsland;

9. Cirillo 1850s Old Vine Grenache 2007, Barossa Valley; and

10. Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2006, Umbria IGT.

That articles on wine, rather than wine reviews, should occupy positions number one and two, does not surprise me.  I thought as much.  These are the types of pieces that I like writing (and reading) most, but inevitably are the hardest and take the longest to write.  I am somewhat pleased therefore that the hardest pieces are also, apparently, the most read.  I have quite a few more pieces planned for the new year.

What though about the wine reviews which have proven better read than others?  Are there some common themes?  I think there probably are.  Many of the most read reviews relate to wines that feature a well known brand, benefit from wide and deep Australian retail and restaurant distribution, are from well established and recognised wine regions (read the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale) and are mostly in the $12 to $25 price bracket.  This is perhaps not remarkable, except that it probably adds to the already long list of issues that face lesser known wine regions and producers.  Another observation is that wines with very high scores appeared to have attracted some interest of themselves.  I refer here to the Antinori Cervaro della Sala, an Italian chardonnay which I would hardly describe as freely available, and the glorious Sandalford Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from 2007 that, in my opinion, is worth double its asking price.  Perhaps most interestingly though, there is not a French wine on the list, yet a couple of wines from Spain and Italy have appeared.  A look back over earlier reviews confirms this trend.  So, as much as I like Bordeaux and other French regional wines, it is perhaps not an interest that is widely shared in Australia, with the possible exception of Burgundy, which has probably deep rather than wide interest.  I would also suggest that there is another eminently practical reason for this apparent lack of interest - French wine (other than Champagne) is audaciously priced (and taxed) in Australia compared with, I think, conservatively, anywhere else I have ever travelled in the world.

Less popular posts

And then what about the less popular posts?  In order, we have:

1. Tin Shed All Day Rosé 2010, Eden Valley

2. Chateau Guiraud G Dry White 2005, Bordeaux

3. Delgado Zuleta La Goya Manzanilla, Sanlucar de Barrameda

4. Woodstock Botrytis Semillon 2006, McLaren Vale

5. Zema Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Coonawarra

6. Mount Horrocks Watervale Semillon 2001, Clare Valley

7. Paul Ginglinger Grand Cru Eichberg Gewurtztraminer 2008, Alsace

8. Petaluma Merlot 2005, Coonawarra

9. Chateau Beau Soleil 2008, Pomerol

10. Brumfield Pinot Noir 2006, Yarra Valley

As can be seen this is a somewhat eclectic collection of wine reviews.  The common factor among many of them is their obscurity from an Australian point of view.  We have a dry white version of a Sauternes (albeit from a famous producer - Chateau Guiraud), a Spanish manzanilla sherry (sherry was last seen, I think, in 1979 in Australia), a semillon from the Clare Valley (rather than the better known (for this variety) Hunter Valley), a largely unknown rosé and pinot noir producer and a gewurtztraminer from Alsace (no matter how great I happened to find it ...).  That a couple of well known Coonawarra labels feature is perhaps a surprise.  Or is it?  Coonawarra perhaps still does not attract the interest that it once did in the 1970s and 1980s.  In my view, as a region, its greatest strength is also its greatest weakness: that is, Coonawarra produces very reliable wines at a good price to value ratio.  If you pay $20 or more, the wine will be acceptable, nearly always.  Yet, you sense with its unique soils that so much more could be done (to my palate, Coonawarra cabernet is rarely Bordeaux, but rather and gloriously sui generis).  The region would perhaps benefit from a few more souls trying to produce some high-end terroir driven wines.  But that is another story (or opportunity).

As always, any feedback is appreciated.

Campbells Moscato 2011

Moscato, though not for everyone, has its place and I quite enjoy its forthright charms from time to time.  This moscato from Campbells in Rutherglen in the warm north east of Victoria (and fortified wine stronghold) is made from perhaps the most noble of the muscat grapes, the muscat à petits grains.  

Light pink in colour, the 2011 vintage has a grape juice like aroma, opening to a medium-sweet palate with medium to pronounced intensity flavours of currant and rose water, and a light frizzante texture.  Lovely summer drinking.  86 points


Abv: 7.5%
Price: $16.50 (500ml)
Source: sample
Website: http://www.campbellswines.com.au
Tasted: December 2011

Dalwhinnie Moonambel Shiraz 1995

I always look forward to drinking Dalwhinnie's shiraz, particularly those with a bit of age on them.  Dalwhinnie is situated in the quixotically named gently rolling hills of the Victorian Pyrenees and is situated 595m above sea level at around 36.5c latitude.  For those wondering where to visit next, it really is beautiful and unexpectedly remote country out there.  Dalwhinnie's shiraz remains their best wine, in my opinion.

The 1995 vintage is simply a stunner.  The wine starts in a demure fashion, with aromas of gently cloaked herbs and spices emerging from the glass.  The spell cast, plums, spices and pepper wash over the palate, with outstanding length offering a long reminder as to what has passed.  A truly exceptional wine.  96 points

Website: http://www.dalwhinnie.com.au

Tasted: December 2011

Delgado Zuleta La Goya Manzanilla

I have not reviewed many fortified wines on Grape Observer, and this would be the first sherry.  However, for my sins, I am shortly to be examined in blind and long answer format on the fortified wines of the world, and it makes some sense, I thought then, to drink some.  

As a starting point, it is somewhat thought provoking to find that this fortified Manzanilla from Sanlucar de Barrameda (the humid seaside village that produces its own version of Fino) weighs in at 15% abv - no longer an outlandish percentage for table wines.  Pale lemon in colour, this sherry has a medium to pronounced intensity aroma of salt, cashew nuts and yeast.  On the palate, medium length, medium-high acidity, well integrated spirit and similar salted nut flavours.  There is certainly a price to be paid for being unfashionable - that is, very little.  Remarkable drinking.  88 points

Abv: 15%

Price: $10.50

Website: http://www.delgadozuleta.com/

Tasted: December 2011

Paul Ginglinger Grand Cru Eichberg Gewurtztraminer 2008

For reasons that I don't wish to disturb as a consumer, Alsace gewurtztraminer can be remarkably well priced.  Here we have a "Grand Cru" at not much more than $50.  Perhaps it is because gewurtztraminer has few longer term admirers.  A book waiting to be written?  Or perhaps the labels of Alsace are too easy to decipher with their rather non-French identification of the grape variety, front and centre.  Anyway, for good value, look no further than this impressive wine.

A typical gewurtz aroma of lychees with a sprinkling of spice.  Medium length, with a fresh and balanced expression of lychees, almonds and a touch of raisins on the palate.  Lovely drinking.  89 points.

Price: $55

Website: http://www.paul-ginglinger.fr/

Tasted: November 2011

Teusner Dog Strangler Mourvedre (aka Mataro) 2010

Teusner's unusually named "Dog Strangler" mourvedre (mataro) attracted my attention with their outstanding and well priced 2009 vintage. Would the 2010 vintage live up to expectations as it appeared before me for lunch in the buzzy confines of local Spanish institution, MoVida?

Once again, this is a lovely wine. An aroma of earth, plums and pepper, which gave away gently to medium length on the palate. While very appealing, however, it seemed to lack the fruit power and length of the 2009 that I so enjoyed. Yet 2010 I believe is said to be the stronger year more generally in the region. It is still a very good wine though and recommended. 86-87 points

Abv: 14.5%
Price: mid $20s
Website: http://www.teusner.com.au/
Tasted: December 2011

Chateau Lynch-Moussas 2007

Chateau Lynch-Moussas is one of the well priced cru classés and can be very good indeed in the better vintages (the best I have tasted is the 2005 vintage).  However, there have only been a handful of wines from the modest 2007 Bordeaux vintage that I have tried so far that have delivered. This wine unfortunately is not one of them.  

It is bright purple in colour.  An aroma of oak, wood, spices, match sticks and a herbaceous character.  The oak derived characters were really quite present.  On the palate, medium-high acidity, medium tannins with notes of plums and blackberries.  This is a balanced wine and a typical Bordeaux in many respects, but is probably ready to drink now, and though it will soften, I suspect it won’t improve much from here.  84 points.

Price: $63

Website: http://www.lynch-moussas.com/en.html

Tasted: October 2011

Chateau Beau Soleil 2008

If you are looking for a good value Pomerol, and believe me when I say that they are not easy to find in Australia, the 2008 vintage from Chateau Beau Soleil merits your attention.

A classic and highly attractive aroma of plums and cigar box.  On the palate, medium length, balance, cigar box and plums.  A balanced enjoyable wine that I could drink all day.  88-89 points


Price: $40
Abv: 13.5%
Website: http://www.chateau-beau-soleil.com/
Tasted: December 2011

Campbells Sparkling Shiraz NV

Sparkling shiraz is described as one of Australia's more unique and long standing contributions to the world of wine.  I think the reason for its persistence is probably this: it is pretty good.  Campbells in Rutherglen fashion a sparkling shiraz using the methode traditionelle, and it shows.
 

Purple and frothy upon pouring, almost like a fermenting wine, the wine opens to a medium to pronounced intensity fragrance of spices, pepper, ripe fruit and hints of yeast autolysis.  On the palate, dry, and a feast of spicy Christmas pudding, with medium length.  Which then brings me to my only query with this style: when it is obvious to drink it.  It worked perfectly well for me with a steak, and the winemaker's notes suggest game, which is probably a good match.  Christmas is perhaps its most obvious companion.  A blend of 90% shiraz and 10% durif (petite syrah). 87 points

Abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Source: sample
Website: http://www.campbellswines.com.au

Bellvale Chardonnay 2008

Gippsland for those unfamiliar with the region is prime dairy country, with generous year round rainfall and a temperate climate. Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip fame pioneered the region's development with his sometimes brilliant, sometimes underwhelming, but always interesting pinot noir. Bellvale is a small operation established in 1998 inspired by the Burgundian ethos.

Bellvale's 2008 chardonnay has a great aroma of oak, peaches and ripe fruit. The palate though is less interesting, seemingly lacking in acidity and structure with a flat and fat mouthfeel, and a touch of spirit, though the latter passed. I was hoping for more, particularly in this golden age of compelling Melbourne region chardonnay. 81 points

Price: $35
Website: http://www.bellvalewine.com.au/
Tasted: November 2011