Les Piliers de Maison Blanche 2005

This is yet another good 2005 Bordeaux, and a blend of 70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc.  It has an aroma of ripe berries and tobacco.  On the palate, there are tannins and good length.  Perhaps the mid palate is not as full as I would have liked, but I found it hard to put the glass down.  Utterly drinkable.  88 points (7.3/10).

Abv: 13.5%
Price: around $50
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://www.montagnesaintemilion.com/chateau-maison-blanche.html

She Oak Hill Estate Shiraz 2008

Look, this wine was pretty good.  It had an aroma of plums, pepper and intense anise.   On the palate, there were plums, length, heat and power.  I would describe this as a "heart warming" wine, in that it was quite coiled and powerful, and seemed to clear a path down my throat.  Did I like it?  Yes.  I tried it at the ever over achieving honest fare restaurant that is the Farmers Arms in Daylesford.  Is it the type of wine I like to drink every day?  Probably not: it was a little strong.  87 points (7.2/10).

Abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Sometimes
Website: http://www.sheoakhill.com.au/

Wild Duck Creek Estate The Blend 2005

This wine stood out to me as perhaps the best wine I tasted over the Easter period.  It is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot.  Here's a link to the winery's notes.  On the nose, there is an aroma of ripe attractive black fruits.  On the palate, there are spices, plums, good length, not too much acid and a touch of anise.  It reminded me a little of a warmer climate cabernet with its sweet fruit.  But not so warm as to lose varietal characteristics.  I also kept writing down different flavours after a couple of minutes in the glass: a good sign too.  A very easy drinking wine that is both gluggable and good.  88 points (7.3/10)

Abv: 14.5%

Price: $40

Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes

Website: http://www.wildduckcreekestate.com.au/

Alternative Grape Varieties in Australia ... in 1984

I will be upfront.  I love trawling through old bookshops.  And the things there that fascinate me most are old books on the history of Australian regions (towns and suburbs even), and Australian wine.  Read on if you are not yet reaching for the pillow.  In this case, for the princely sum of $12, I discovered the tome that is Len Evan's Complete Book of Australian Wine, first published in 1984, and reprinted in 1985.  Ok, 1984 is not that long ago, but it's not yesterday either.  Len Evans is a man that precedes my interest in wine, but has been described as a highly influential figure in Australia's wine industry, even the "Godfather of Australian wine".

So, what did such a distinguished and credible man have to say about Australian wine some 27 years ago?  Quite a lot actually: 791 pages worth.  And as I slowly dissected this book, I couldn't help but notice some highly interesting observations on some "alternative" grape varieties as they stood in Australia in 1984.  Here are some highlights of interest:

Barbera: "Despite its importance elsewhere, barbera is only a very minor commercial variety in Australia ... Unless fashions in wine consumption change, the potential usefulness of barbera in Australia will be restricted to blending."

Gamay: "Gamay has potential in Australia for making light, fresh, fruity-flavoured dry reds of a style that should readily find a place in the market - the true luncheon red, soft on the gums, easy on the stomach, and with a bouquet and taste of all things bright and beautiful."

Malbec: "The present area of malbec grown in Australia is about 500 hectares, of which two-thirds are located in South Australia ... The limited quantities of malbec wines made in Australia are of good quality, rich in colour and in tannin ... Here, it is mostly seen in blends with cabernet and/or shiraz".

Pinot Noir: "Most plantings are in South Australia (136 hectares).  In New South Wales there are 63 hectares ... The most famous pinot noir wines have been made in the Hunter Valley.  This is somewhat surprising, because the variety usually develops insufficient colour and produces thin wines when grown in such warm regions.  For this reason it has been most blended with shiraz, although amongst the few straight pinots made in the Hunter are some magnificent wines.  From its performance overseas, it would seem that pinot noir is more suited to cooler districts than the Hunter ..."

Sangiovese: "Sangiovese is a vigorous and productive grape that tends to produce neutral wines on its own.  Commercial plantings are negligible in Australia."

Pinot gris: "Pinot gris is not of commercial significance in Australia but interest is occasionally expressed in the variety ... In Europe it makes impressive deep, golden wines that possess a rich fruity flavour.  However, it has a low acid content and this could limit its usefulness here."

Sauvignon blanc: "Despite the importance of sauvignon blanc in France, it is relatively unimportant in Australia, the majority being grown in South Australia ... It has the inherent qualities to become far more popular than at present."

Australian wine clearly has substantially, and almost radically, changed in quite a short period.  Sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and pinot noir have all joined the mainstream in 2011.  Even the dullest cafe wine list has a pinot gris or sauvignon blanc listed on it.  Perhaps it is even confirmatory of that description.  Len was also clearly very prescient in relation to the rise of sauvignon blanc.  I wonder though whether it was anticipated that our neighbours in Marlborough would be the ones to take full advantage of it?

And then there's the comments about pinot noir.  My dozing head jolted as I read the words "Hunter Valley" instead of say, the expected Yarra Valley (or proximate region) reference.  Now, I have not had the benefit of tasting any Hunter Valley pinot noir based wines, nor the blends with pinot noir in them that Len refers to.  And I have heard that the description of "famous" may be accurate, as may be the description of their quality.  Nonetheless, it's fair to say that, with a couple of exceptions, the future of this grape in Australia has been in the hands of the Melbourne "dress circle" (read Yarra Valley, Macedon Ranges, Bellarine Peninsula and the Mornington Peninsula) and Tasmania for seemingly quite some time now.  And the climatic parallels between the sub tropical steaminess of the Hunter Valley and cold Burgundy, as Len alludes to, are not immediately obvious.  Pinot noir is also about as mainstream now as an unexpectedly lowered Victorian speed limit.

Sitting here in 2011, Len's comments about sangiovese were perhaps a bit tough in view of the good sangioveses now available from the King Valley, McLaren Vale, the Clare Valley and elsewhere.  If I have a criticism of sangiovese in Australia, it's that it still probably lacks a "defining" producer that unarguably produces a profound sangiovese wine.  Hopefully it will happen, as I can't wait.  Barbera too has escaped its possible fate as a blending wine, although it probably in fairness retains a much lower profile than sangiovese.

Gamay, despite Len's commendations and my own humble wishes, remains somewhat of a no-show in Australia.  There are a couple of good producers, and that's about it.  Bass Phillip is probably the best of them to my palate, and Eldridge Estate is another that I've tried that is quite good.  The potential remains seemingly unexplored, perhaps still restrained by the earlier marketing excesses and quality issues of Beaujolais Nouveau.  And finally, malbec?  My only surprise here was that there was already 500 hectares of the stuff in 1984 for a grape variety that still seems a bit "new" to me.

So, not bad reading for $12 ...

Zig Zag Road Cabernet Merlot 2005

Zig Zag Road is a small winery located 540 metres above sea level in the Macedon Ranges. So pretty cold then. And perhaps a somewhat unlikely location to ripen cabernet sauvignon. Not surprisingly then, their 2005 cabernet merlot smells like a mint plot. On the palate, there are flavours of mint, leaves and tea. It's ok, but I don't go for minty cabernet so much. 82 points (6.7/10).

Abv: 13.7%
Price: around $26
Would I buy it having tasted it? No
Website: http://www.zigzagwines.com.au/

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2008

Jim Barry's "The Lodge Hill" shiraz from 2008 is an ultra-ripe wine. It has an aroma of pepper, oak and plums. Tasting it, it has frankly very good length, if a touch rich. The oak was a bit obvious too. That said, it's very pleasant, will probably last and is quite a bargain for its price. 87 points (7.2/10).

Abv: 14.5%
Price: $19 (current vintage)
Would I buy it having tasted it? Yes
Website: http://jimbarry.com/

Hugel Riesling 1998

Ah, lovely stuff.  If you are after a good Alsatian riesling, look no further than this wine (admittedly with 13 years of age on it now).  It has an aroma of lemons and attractive minerals.  The palate has that great combination of acidity and length.  This is a very smart wine indeed that is all class, and is capable of being glugged very quickly.  88 points (7.3/10).

Abv: 13%
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://www.hugel.com/

Mount Langi Ghiran Nut Tree Hill Sangiovese 2005

I bought this wine a few years ago from Mount Langhi's cellar door, and remember being quite impressed by its youthful vigour and quality.  Here are the winery's notes.  Tasting it again in 2011, there was an aroma of spice and cherries, and a palate with considerable spice and a little length.  What I didn't remember from that first tasting was its almost overwhelming acidity.  I am not entirely worried by acidity in wine, but this is a wine for acid lovers.  If there are food wines, this wine requires a banquet.  82 points (6.7/10)

Abv: 14%
Price: $25
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No
Website: http://www.langi.com.au

Craggy Range Te Kahu Merlot 2009

I am a newcomer to Craggy Range's wines.  And so far I am impressed.  The 2009 vintage of Craggy Range's "Te Kahu" single vineyard merlot from the Gimblett Gravels is an excellent wine.  It is a blend of 80% merlot, 12% cabernet franc, 5% cabernet sauvignon and 3% malbec.  It has an aroma of plums and subtle oak.  On the palate, there are at times quite pronounced spices, pepper, acidity and very good length.  It achieves what many Australian merlots do not - balance and length.  My only complaint is that Craggy Range's website appears, regrettably more than regularly long on marketing speak.  89 to 90 points (7.4-7.5/10)

Abv: 14%
Price: $30
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://www.craggyrange.com/

Yellow Tail Shiraz 2010

Yellow Tail's shiraz carried my highest hopes for its 2010 red range.  The aroma though was a little sweet smelling, with notes of baked plums, leaving me to fear residual sugar on the palate again.  And on the palate, there it was - that sweet flavour on the tip of the tongue.  Fruity but sweet.  Not for me.  79 points (6.4/10)

Abv: 13.5%

Price: $9.99

Source: sample

Would I buy it having tasted it?  No

Website: http://www.yellowtailwine.com

Yellow Tail Merlot 2010

Yellow Tail has been spectacularly successful, particularly in the United States.  On the one hand, I quite admire tall poppys, and the contribution this company must inevitably make to the livelihood of many growers and others involved in it.  On the other hand, I'm not going to try to guess what it is that makes this label so successful or why other people might like it.  Instead, I prefer to judge wine solely on whether I like it or not.

Things started really quite well.  This merlot has quite an attractive aroma of plums and spices.  The palate though disappointed - it's just too sweet for me - with apparent residual sugar in the blend.  It reminded me a little of those red raspberry lollies one finds in the "party mix" variety bags.  That said, the label does in fact say that the wine has a flavour of "sweet plums", so no-one is misled.  It holds together "ok", but it's not what I like to drink.  79 points (6.4/10)

Abv: 13.5%
Price: $9.99
Source: sample
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No
Website: http://www.yellowtailwine.com

Yellow Tail Pinot Noir 2010

Yellow Tail's 2010 pinot noir is quite unlike any pinot noir I've tasted before.  It has an aroma of very sweet plums, spices and twigs.  A most "un-pinot" like aroma.  On the palate, initially there was a cola like flavour, and with some time in the glass, there were tannins, some length, but also some unattractive bitterness.  (I don't do bitter).  There didn't seem to be same level of residual sugar as I think was there in Yellow Tail's other 2010 offerings of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, but I think it is still there a little.  It's not terrible, but it didn't appeal to me.  77 points (6.2/10)

Abv: 13.5%

Price: $9.99

Source: sample

Would I buy it having tasted it?  No

Website: http://www.yellowtailwine.com

Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Yellow Tail's cabernet sauvignon has an attractive aroma of black fruits, with a touch of leaves.  So a pretty good start for this devotee of cabernet.  The palate though disappointed - it seemed sweet, too sweet, on the tongue.  Possible residual sugar in the blend.  A dessert style cabernet perhaps?  Not for me.  76 points (6.1/10)

Abv: 13.5%

Price: $9.99

Source: sample

Would I buy it having tasted it?  No

Website: http://www.yellowtailwine.com

Henschke Lenswood Abbotts Prayer Merlot 1998

Henschke's Lenswood Abbotts Prayer 1998 merlot is a blend of 86% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 4% cabernet franc.  Here is a link to the winery's notes on the wine, which uses the word "exceptional" a couple of times.  While the wine is good, I didn't find it exceptional.  It has an aroma of eucalyptus, herbs and leaves.  On the palate, there are plum and similar herbal flavours.  It's a pleasant wine, but it's a bit leafy for my taste in merlot, and there are better examples out there, particularly for the price.  85 points (7/10)

Abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No
Website: http://www.henschke.com.au

Orlando Jacaranda Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

This wine will live for at least another 20 years, such is its richness and power.  It is almost more shiraz than cabernet in flavour profile.  In terms of aroma, there is chocolate, spices and licorice.  On the palate, there is some good length and very rich fruit.  This is undeniably a very good wine, but perhaps almost a meal in itself.  89 points (7.4/10)

Abv: 13.5%
Price: around $65
Would I buy it having tasted it?  It's a good wine, but it's probably a bit too rich for my taste in cabernet.
Website: http://www.orlandowines.com/index.php

Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz 1999

I now get Mount Langi Ghiran shiraz.  It's not that I didn't get it before - I've always thought their shiraz both good and well priced for a "flagship" wine - I just hadn't realised that their shiraz could be this good.  The 1999 shiraz has an aroma of intense white pepper and green peppercorns.  "Pepperama" in fact.  On the palate, there is pepper, a depth of plum flavours and viscous length.  An outstanding wine that deserves seeking out.  95 points (8/10)

Abv: 14.5%
Price: $85 (current vintage)
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Is the Pope Catholic?
Website: http://www.langi.com.au

Langmeil Hangin Snakes Shiraz 2009

Langmeil's 2009 shiraz has an aroma of jube like red fruit.  On the palate, there is sweet red fruit and some length.  It's perfectly pleasant and a fairly priced wine, but is not a style I prefer.  84 points (6.9/10).

Abv: 14.5%
Price: $21.50
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No
Website: http://www.langmeilwinery.com.au

Jim Barry McRae Wood Shiraz 1998

This wasn't what I'd call a bad find at the local Chinese restaurant.  Well it's actually a rather excellent local Chinese restaurant, and they have a quite remarkable wine list, but it's still not necessarily what you might expect.  According to Jim Barry's website: "in 1964 Jim purchased 70 acres of prime land from Duncan McRae Wood and planted his first vineyard with shiraz."  Like most Jim Barry wines, the 98 McRae Wood is very good.  On the nose, it had that "x" factor - i.e, a self evidently good wine.  Specifically, there were aromas of anise, leather and plums.  The palate had plums, dried herbs and some pleasant length.  Very good drinking, though drink now.  88-89 points (7.3-7.4/10).

Price: $50 (current release)
Abv: 13.5%
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://jimbarry.com

Katnook Estate Merlot 2001

Were I asked to name ten excellent Australian single varietal merlots, I would certainly fail to name more than a few.  Happily, the subject of this wine review, Katnook Estate, generally produce a very good one from Coonawarra.  Another good producer I tried recently is Blue Poles.  Reading Katnook's description of the 2001 vintage here, it does not seem like it was an ideal vintage - a bit wet, above average yields and early picking.  Looking at the wine, its colour was starting to fade a little both in general appearance and particularly around the rim.  That, however, is where the qualifications end, because in the all important smell and taste department, this wine presented superbly.  It had an attractive aroma of spices and red fruits, while the palate had extremely good persistence (around 20 seconds in the mouth) and a certain delicacy that I enjoyed.  Great drinking.  Drink now.  90 points (7.5/10)

Abv: 13%
Price: $40 (current vintage)
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://www.katnookestate.com.au

Blain Gagnard Caillerets Premier Cru 1996

Unfortunately, this wine was terrible.  I am told that some people are more sensitive than others to sulphide aromas, and I am regrettably one of them.  The sulphide aroma was so intense that the prospect of actually tasting the wine, to me, seemed about as likely as wishing to drink a cup of detergent.  My brain screamed "no".  But I did eventually taste it, and the palate was better, dominated by lemon rind and with a little length, reminding me of a Chablis, which this was not.  I am told in Australia that frequently a second winemaker will taste the wines so that inadvertent (if the maker is not sensitive to sulphides) mistakes such as this can be avoided.  Smart idea.  65 points.  (5/10)

Abv: 13%
Price: around $75
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No

Coombe Farm Blanc de Blancs 2009

Coombe Farm is a winery based in the Yarra Valley.  Their website says "All our wines are hand harvested and crafted to uphold varietal integrity, whilst expressing the classic terroir which the Yarra Valley is so renowned. With minimal filtration and fining our wines are gentle in approach, with seamless structure and persistence in flavour."

I'm not so sure that the Yarra Valley with its variable soils, climate and elevation has a single "classic" terroir that one might spot at a distance, but that said, I was mildly surprised by this blanc de blancs.  It has an aroma of crisp pears.  On the palate, there is a flavour of apples, a pleasant mousse and firm acidity.  Good drinking.  84 points (6.9/10)

Abv: 13.5%
Price: I couldn't find it, but I expect it's around $20
Would I buy it having tasted it?  I don't drink a lot of Australian sparkling wine, but I wouldn't shy away from this one.
Website: http://www.coombefarm.com.au

Blackjack Block 6 Shiraz 2004

According to Blackjack's website: "Blackjack Vineyards is situated on an easterly slope, in the old Apple and Pear growing district of the Harcourt Valley on the foothills of Mt.Alexander. Although just south of Bendigo, the climate is considerably cooler ... The Block 6 was planted in 1998".  What then of the wine?  The aroma was of pepper and plums.  On the palate, there were plums and a bit of length - so not bad.  My doubt was that there was a core of alcohol (it could have been acidity too) that made the wine a little rough.  84 points. (6.9/10)

Abv: 14%
Price: $35
Would I buy it having tasted it?  At $15, probably.
Website: http://www.blackjackwines.net.au

Chateau L'Escart Bordeaux 2004

Wise counsel is to stay away from sub $20 Bordeaux (mostly sub Euro 7 bottles in France, excluding Australian taxes).  Most of it is fairly grim, green, acidic and, even if you find a good one, bottle variation seems a troubling issue.  I sometimes wonder why it is imported at all.  It does neither Bordeaux, nor the Australian wine drinker many favours.  A few years ago, after an initial exciting bottle and overcome by that particular compulsion that follows the tasting of an unexpectedly good and well priced wine, I predictably immediately forgot the variability lesson and purchased half a dozen of the Chateau L'Escart 2004 for the princely sum of approximately $90.  The other bottles of course have proven either below average, or just average.  This bottle was in the latter camp, with an aroma of cigar box and bright red fruits.  On the palate, there are some tannins and while there is not a lot of length or depth, it is quite pleasant.  But it's nothing amazing.  80 points.  (6.5/10)

Abv: 13.5%
Price: around $15
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No
Website: http://www.chateaulescart.com/cuvees-us.htm

Eagle Vale Cabernet Merlot 2008

I tried this wine at a restaurant, where it was well priced and it's hard to get Margaret River cabernet too wrong in a good year like 2008 in that region.  I'd not heard of this producer before (not a hard state of affairs), but their website provides an accolade from James Halliday that it is "one of the 10 best new wineries in Australia".  Interest piqued, what then of their 2008 cabernet merlot?  It has an aroma of black fruits, light capsicum and oak.  Quite attractive.  On the palate, there's some fruit flavour there, but things unfortunately are rather plain and a little dilute.  Pleasant but a bit "whatever".  80 to 82 points.  (6.5-6.7/10)

Abv: 12.5%
Price: about $15
Would I buy it having tasted it?  No
Website: http://www.eaglevalewine.com

Tar & Roses Shiraz 2009

The 2009 vintage was a year of terrible bushfires and drought in Victoria.  I didn't detect any smoke taint (something I intensely dislike) in this wine, and in fact, found it quite good.  The fruit was sourced 84% from Heathcote, 1% from Nagambie Lakes and 13% from the Strathbogie Ranges.  I see on their website that Huon Hooke appeared to give the wine 94 points in the Sydney Morning Herald.  I think the wine is good, but not near that sort of score, at least on my scale.  The wine has an aroma of oak, vanilla and plums.  On the palate, there is pepper, plums and nice length.  A good wine, particularly, I might add, for the price.  85 points (7/10).

Abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Maybe - the oak was a touch obvious, but it's very good for the price.
Website: http://www.tarandroses.com.au

Thelema Mountain Vineyards The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This is the first South African wine that I have reviewed on Grape Observer, and it is a good one.  According to their website, Thelema consists of "157 hectares of land on the slopes of the Simonsberg. The elevation ranges from 370 to 640 metres above sea level of mainly south-facing slopes, making Thelema one of the highest and probably coolest vineyards in the Stellenbosch area."  Upon opening, the wine's aroma was a bit unattractive, but the bottle settled down to reveal spices, mint, boots and capsicum.  The palate though was excellent, with very good length and fruit flavour.  Overall, a very enjoyable, excellent wine.  89 points.  (7.4/10)

Abv: 14%
Price: about A$25 in South Africa for the current vintage (probably around $50 in Australia after taxes)
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://www.thelema.co.za

Coliban Valley Merlot 2005

Coliban Valley is a small producer from the Heathcote region.  2005 was a good year in Heathcote.  Merlot is probably not the strong suit of the region, and it showed a little with this wine.  The wine has an aroma of mint, soy and red plums.  On the palate, there is a dried tea character, but with some pleasant fruit and length.  Overall, a pleasant wine to drink now.  82 to 83 points. (6.7-6.8/10)

Abv: 13%

Price: $20 (current vintage)

Would I buy it having tasted it?  No

Website: http://www.colibanvalleywines.com.au

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 1999

Leeuwin Estate's "Art Series" chardonnay is, on average, a seriously good wine.  The Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley are very good for chardonnay, but the Margaret River seems to have an extra gear.  I've tried now the 1999 (this review), the 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007 of Leeuwin Estate and they are all good.  Excellent in fact.  I tasted the 1999 vintage blind, and it had an opulent citrus and tropical fruit aroma, with subtle oak.  On the palate, length and minerals were evident.  Superb drinking.  93 points.  (7.8/10)

Abv: 14.5%
Price: around $80
Would I buy it having tasted it?  Yes
Website: http://www.leeuwinestate.com.au/