Frederic Magnien 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Wine Review

Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest of the great communes of the Cote de Nuits, and competes with Vosne-Romanee for the title of the most important pinor noir village.  It is located here:


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This wine though was my first non-pleasing 2005. It had a rather "rubber like" aroma, but the palate was better with some acidity and cherries. I suspect I will need to re-taste this wine. 80 points.

Source: retail

Price: $130

Frederic Magnien Bourgogne 2007

The basic Bourgogne from this producer's 2007 vintage had an aroma of cherries and slight oak, with acidity and cherries on the palate.  Ok.  82 points.

Source: retail
Price: $47

Heggies Botrytis Riesling 2007

This wine had a distinctive aroma of iced lemons.  The palate showed a bit of length, and was pleasant, without necessarily being memorable.  84 points.

Frederic Magnien Vosne-Romanee 2007

An aroma of graphite and cherries, with nice length on the palate and pleasant fruit.  86 points.

Source: retail
Price: $155

Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanee 2007

This wine was very dilute in appearance, with an aroma of cherries with a slight metallic edge.  The palate however showed nice depth and flavour, seemingly proving that aroma and palate are sometimes independent with Burgundy.  85+ points.

Source: retail
Price: $155

Terroir, appellation d'origine contrôlée and geographic indications

It seems relatively uncontroversial that terroir driven wines will hold some part of Australia's wine future.  And terroir itself holds many aspects, including perhaps most obviously geography, geology and climate.  After reviewing so many Burgundy wines recently, it got me thinking that the many trees felled on the topic of French terroir frequently start from tasting wines that are designated as appellation d'origine contrôlée ("AOC") wines.  Which then got me thinking whether or not an AOC system of the French kind might have some sort of merit in an Australian context. 

In Australia, we do of course have a limited appellation system based on "geographical indications" ("GI"). The Australian Government Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation website sets out the GI rules in good detail.  In short, Australian GIs are an official description of a "wine zone", "region" or "sub-region" (basically "large", "medium" and "small", respectively) whose only requirement is that a wine which carries a GI must include at least 85% fruit from that region.  A list of Australia's current wine zones, regions and sub-regions is contained in this link.  Many producers of course go much further than this and identify wine as coming from particular parcels of land.  However, technically, for wine to be labelled as say Yarra Valley, Macedon Ranges or Mornington Peninsula wine, it is sufficient that 85% of the fruit in the wine is sourced from within that relevant GI.

Conversely, under the French AOC system, the detail of what is prescribed for wine to be eligible as an AOC wine is rather breathtaking.  The approving body (the Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité ("INAO"): see http://www.inao.gouv.fr/) sets rules for, among other things, the permitted geographic region, the types of grapes permitted, the density of planting and maximum production per hectare.  For example, taking a wine seeking to be given the designation of "AOC Chambolle-Musigny" in Burgundy, the AOC rules for that commune specify, among other things, that (i) the wine must be made exclusively from vines in the plot area approved by the INAO, (ii) the wine must be made from pinot noir, with chardonnay, pinot blanc and pinot gris accepted as accessory varieties, (iii) accessory varieties are limited to 15% of each plot, (iv) the vines must have a minimum density of 9,000 vines per hectare, (v) irrigation is prohibited, (vi) the wines must have a minimum natural alcoholic strength of 10.5%, (viii) the wines must be vinified in accordance with local practices and (ix) the use of oak chips is prohibited (for the rules, see here).  There are many, many further requirements.

The AOC rules therefore are considerably more restrictive than the Australian GI regime, and indeed, almost completely different.  The AOC system has also faced considerable criticism in France and from abroad.  Criticisms include (i) the apparent lack of a necessary causal connection between AOC wines and quality wines, (ii) the rules not being flexible to changing circumstances such as climatic conditions or new technologies or permitting innovation in grape varieties, (iii) the quality effect of particular winemakers or owners being largely ignored, (iv) the boundaries of AOC appellations not necessarily accurately reflecting the underlying terroir, (v) the AOC labels can be confusing - particularly in Burgundy, and (vi) some argue that the AOC system has inhibited France's ability to compete with more flexibly labelled exports from the "new world".  For the last reason, there are current reforms afoot in the EU: see here for an introduction.  Despite these apparent limitations, the AOC system is seen as a conduit for the maintenance of quality wine making traditions and expression of terroir, and for protection against "wine fraud".

In my humble opinion, it is probably possible to make an argument for both sides.  The flexibility of Australia's current system would seem better than being constrained by the rigidity of an AOC style system.  Conversely, there's a certain rigour and predictability that comes with an AOC system, particularly were it crafted in a manner minded to remediate the perceived limitations of the French AOC system, that could be of benefit in assisting to help create and distinguish Australia's particular terroirs.  If I had to make a decision now, I would probably arrive on the side of maintaining Australia's existing system, since Australian producers can no doubt achieve the same results without the imposition of a set of bureaucratic rules and the risk that poses.  But it is perhaps worth more than a passing thought.

Gros Frere et Soeur Vosne-Romanee 2007

The 2007 vintage of this wine was tasted next to the 2006 vintage just reviewed, and it was a rather interesting comparison. The 2007 is more brooding in nature, with herbs and a slight acetone note on the nose, while the palate showed more pronounced acidity and structure. I preferred, at least to drink now, the 2006. 84 to 85 points.

Source: retail
Price: $155

Gros Frere et Soeur Vosne-Romanee 2006

Vosne-Romanee is one of the greatest pinot noir villages in Burgundy, and is located here:


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This wine had an aroma of automun leaves and cherries, with good flavour on the palate and a cherry like note.  86 points

Source: retail
Price: $145

Vincent Bouzereau Corton Clos de Fietres Grand Cru 1999

This fairly well priced (for a grand cru) wine revealed an aroma of herbs and autumn leaves, with nice length on the palate.  87 points.

Source: retail

Price: $170

Lignier-Michelot Morey-Saint-Denis 2007

Morey-Saint-Denis has a rather mixed reputation it would seem, but has a number of very good estates.  It is located here:


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This wine had an aroma of autumn leaves, and a possible sweet note. The palate was rather plain. 81 points.

Source: retail

Price: $95

Lignier-Michelot Chambolle-Musigny 2007

This wine had an aroma of fresh fruit and cherreis, with some length and acidity on the palate.  A good wine.  85 points.

Source: retail
Price: $95

Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 2006

Chambolle-Musigny is noted for its production of delicate pinot noir, and I must admit that I am quite partial to it.  Here is its location:


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This wine from the 2006 vintage, had an open knit aroma of herbs and cherries, with suppleness and length on the palate. Very good.  85 points.

Source: retail
Price: $120

Faiveley Premier Cru Clos des Myglands 2006

This rather pleasant wine had an aroma of cherries, and some tannins and length on the palate.  A good, well priced, effort that is worth a second look.  84 points.

Source: retail

Price: $68

Some thoughts on organics and biodynamics

Here's a letter to the editor from the June 2010 edition of La Revue du Vin de France June 2010 about the rise of biodynamic wines in France (translated):

"It's with regret that I see that your experts have become affectionados of biodynamics ... While I'm in agreement with the rules of organic agriculture, which mark a return to common sense, I am unable to entertain quasi-cult like practices developed by Steiner about 100 years ago. For example, horns which will boost cosmic forces with cow dung .. and other nonsense which culminate with astrology ... I am surprised that your competent reviewers are supporting a questionable practice that will not save the decline of French wine in the face of the growing competition and quality of foreign wine ..."

Rather thought provoking, I thought. I too have noticed a certain tacit acceptance locally in Australia that equates "regular", "organic" and "biodynamic" with "good", "better" and "best" respectively.  I think I get the organics argument.  While apparently a clear definition is unavailable for "organics" (and therefore, cynically, I think capable of being filled by anyone trying to make money out of its caché), it seems accepted that organically grown grapes won't have permitted man-made inputs such as pesticides, chemical fertilisers, genetically modified organisms or chemically derived food additives.  I grow my own vegetables organically, so I guess I must think it does something.  But there is of course the small matter of what is and isn't organic, with copper and sulphur apparently permitted as organic, yet both are plainly chemicals.  I also wonder whether the "evil" chemicals are really just a more efficient version of what the plants are asking for, and so we are kidding ourselves if we think that providing it indirectly through organic preparations will produce a better result.  But I like the look, smell and touch of a good soil, and organics seems to help that along rather nicely compared with synthetic solutions.

Biodynamics, I think I am less keen on.  So what then is it? According to the "Biodynamic Agriculture Australia" website, it is a:

"regenerative agriculture, holistic in approach and practice, through which the farmer and gardener brings the substances and forces of nature into a quality and sustainable production ... Biodynamic farming practices are of an organic nature, not relying on bringing artificial fertilisers on to the farm, although some organic or natural mineral fertiliser may be necessary during the establishment phase."

All clear then ... To those of a more practical bent, perhaps like me, it looks largely like a form of organic farming with some mystic add-ons.  Those add-ons, I believe, include filling cow's horns with manure in Spring, burying ground quartz in cow horns in Autumn, creating certain organic composts and then observing the phases of the moon and planets in the decisions to plant, cultivate, spray and harvest grapes.  Adherents, including many in Australia (and wine writers such as Max Allen), are convinced it makes a difference to both wine quality and soil health.  I, on the other hand, haven't been able to test the merits of biodynamics so closely.  What I would like to see is an analysis of how much of a difference a biodynamic approach would make compared with a wholly organic approach.  Applying organic composts can improve soils too.  It also would be interesting to see whether the contribution, or otherwise, of the astrological component would be capable of scientific isolation.  I may be wrong, but aspects of biodynamics seem too mystical for me.

Despite these doubts, the wine producers who have reportedly adopted biodynamics are a seriously heavyweight group. They include, among others, Leflaive, Leroy and Domaine de la Romanee Conti in Burgundy, Chapoutier in the Rhone Valley, Cullen in the Margaret River and Jasper Hill in Heathcote. So, perhaps there is something in it, and I guess the ecosystem (other than perhaps the cows providing the horns) is unlikely to collapse if more wine producers adopted it.  For another view, see Campbell Mattinson's writings.



* This article has been amended since its original publication.

Faiveley Bourgogne 2006

Faiveley's basic Bourgogne from the 2006 vintage had an aroma reminiscent of socks and herbs, and a rather plain palate with not much length.  It is however fairly inexpensive for red Burgundy.  79 points.

Source: retail
Price: $36

Faiveley La Framboisiere 2006

The commune of Mercurey produces almost entirely red wine and tends to produce structured wines. It is located here:


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This wine had an aroma of autumn leaves, with a palate of cherries in a rather light style.  80 points.

Source: retail

Price: $58

Warramate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Warramate is situated attractively close to Yarra Yering in the Yarra Valley. But unfortunately Yarra Yering it is not. The 2006 cabernet was deeply coloured with aromas of cedar, capsicum and blackberries. The palate initially was a bit hollow with a little length but only at the very back of the palate. With time a rather stern cedary flavour emerged with evident tannins. Ok only.  80 points.

Source: cellar door
Abv: 13.5%
Price: about $20
Website: www.warramatewines.com.au

Faiveley Premier Cru Morgeot 2006

This Chassagne-Montrachet presented really rather well, with an aroma of citrus and flint, and a fleshy enjoyable palate.  86 points.

Source: retail
Price: $165

Bruno Colin Premier Cru La Maltroie 2005

This wine from the 2005 vintage had an aroma of citrus and straw, with good length and citrus characters on the palate.  88 points.

Source: retail
Price: $140

Domaine de L'R Les 5 Elements Chinon 2007

I am quite partial to the cabernet franc based wines from Chinon in the Loire Valley, which are frequently good everyday wines in the well priced range of 6 to 10 euros in France.


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This wine however, while typical of Chinon, wasn't an especially good example of it. It had an aroma of herbs and taught fruit, and a pleasant red fruit palate suitable for everyday drinking.  It would have been perfectly fine at $15 a bottle, but at $35.50 per bottle I felt it overpriced.  I'd really quite like to find some competitive "substitute" Australian examples of cabernet franc.  80 points.

Source: retail
abv: 12%

Louis Roederer NV

I've always liked Louis Roederer's non-vintage champagne, but this particular bottle deserved special mention because it was quite unlike the usual rather full bodied yeasty expression given by that champagne.  Instead, an aroma of apples and light toast was met with a rather outstanding mousse on the palate and citrus flavours.  Tasted blind, I thought this was almost a bit like the highly priced Veuve Clicquot La Grand Dame.  I was told that the base wine for the champagne was from the 2004 and 2005 vintages, but I was not able to verify that.  An excellent, if atypical, Louis Roederer NV champagne.  89 points.

Domaine Christian Moreau Grand Cru Les Clos Chablis 2007

This wine was sourced from the northerly Chablis region:


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Unfortunately, the first bottle of this grand cru wine was clearly corked.  The second bottle however revealed a straw like aroma, and a palate with pleasant acidity and fruit.  85 points.

Source: retail
Price: $130

Marcarini Moscato d'Asti 2009

This wine was served blind and had a pleasant aroma of sweet apples. The palate was similar, with refreshing acidity. Not a complex wine, but pretty good and to be consumed young. 84 points.

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 2008

This young Chablis wine had an aroma of rather soapy fruit, and a palate with high acidity and a bit of length.  Pleasant, but not earth shattering.  83 points.

Source: retail
Price: $55

Barossa Valley unsuitable for shiraz?

The somewhat controversial proposition that the Barossa Valley is unsuitable for shiraz has been put forward by Andrew Jefford in his article entitled "A Year in Australia: My Take on Terroir" in this month's (July 2010) Decanter magazine.  He relevantly comments that:

"Many Australian winemakers have been busy, over the past-quarter century, erasing the sense of place from their wines.  Only now is it beginning to be allowed back.  Even then it's a struggle, because of the innate conservatism of the wine-show system, and because of the lavish scores which prevail in some Australian wine reviews  Both over-reward (in my view) manufactured wines whose day should never have dawned in the first place.

That quarter-century, I'd suggest, will eventually be viewed as lost time: a period during which many of Australia's greatest terroirs underperformed, with sometimes ill-suited varieties lingering for too long in the wrong locations.  An example of the latter - and I accept that this will seem heretical to many - is Shiraz in the Barossa and McLaren Vale.  Shiraz flourished in these regions during the fortified-wine era ...

The vineyards were then switched (from the mid-1960s onwards) to table wines, and the prevailing view became that you need to add something like 4g/l of tartaric acid to deliver an acceptable pH and TA post-malo.  I cannot believe that any wine which most producers believe routinely requires around 4g/l of acid adjustment to salvage its pH will hold a long-term place in the fine-wine pantheon: the end result, when combined with intrinsically sweet fruit and an absence of tannin, is simply too confected and simple.  These wines appeal initially, but quickly pall with experience (and food) ..."

Underlying these comments appears to be the proposition that the acidification of wines obstructs terroir from being expressed.  The related proposition appears to be that acid additions detract from wine quality.  The former may or may not be true: I don't know.  I do though find it fairly easy to identify Barossa shiraz in blind tastings, so if distinctiveness is an element of terroir then Barossa shiraz has it.  The latter I'd suggest depends on personal taste - some people like acidity in wines (eg riesling), some people don't.

More generally though, my humble observation is that wine is hardly an unadulterated expression of grapes.  So I wonder whether acid additions are an important terroir "erasing factor" or whether we need to first systematically rule out other factors such as fungicides, sulphur additions, chaptilisation in cooler climates and the myriad of other adjustments that are involved in the grape growing and winemaking process to be certain.  I'm not saying that acid additions are irrelevant - acidity adjustments may of course play a problematic role and indeed I sometimes complain of excess acidity in some Coonawarra cabernets.  However, if the underlying complaint is really that any major adjustments to the vineyard or wine are to be viewed as problematic, by the same logic, many of the world's classic cooler climate wine regions might too be declared to be growing unsuitable grape varieties.  And that doesn't seem right, if only because I like their products too.

In relation to the Barossa Valley, in my humble experience, Barossa shiraz ages extremely well, is capable of producing wines that are outstanding, and to my palate at least, has a rather unique flavour that distinguishes it from shiraz produced in other parts of Australia, and other parts of the world.  To my palate, while I think that Bordeaux produces the world's definitive cabernet sauvignon based wines, Australia produces the world's definitive shiraz based wines.  Of course, there can be no harm in experimentation with different grape varieties to see whether even better results can be achieved, but I'd query whether it's right to conclude that shiraz is unsuited to the Barossa Valley for the reasons put forward above.

VIncent Bouzereau Premier Cru Les Charmes 2004

This wine was identical to the previous wine reviewed except for its vintage, this time, the 2004.  The 2004 had an aroma of flint and citrus.  The palate showed citrus too, though I found it to have a slight bitter note, which meant I much preferred the 2002 vintage. 84? points.

Source: retail

Price: $120

Tapanappa Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2008

This is the first time I have tried a Tapanappa wine. Though its spelling appears to present a unique challenge, their 2008 chardonnay was really quite a surprise. Tasted blind, it had an aroma of stone fruit, sweet peaches and a floral element. On the palate, almost uniquely in my experience with Australian chardonnay, it was incredibly delicate and floral. A very interesting wine. 85 to 86 points.

Website: http://www.tapanappawines.com.au

Bass Phillip Estate Pinot Noir 2004

Tasted blind, this wine reminded me a little of Giaconda - not because they taste similiar, but because both have such clarity of pinot noir flavour that you think the wine must be from Burgundy, whereas in reality I suspect it is simply that the fruit is too good for many Burgundies. Soupy in appearance, the 2004 vintage had an aroma and palate that was cherry like and the palate showed a bit of length. It's a good well made varietal wine, but comes at a price. 85 points.

Grosset Polish Hill 1997

Here's another review of an icon Australian wine, again tasted blind. The 1997 tasted was bottled under cork, and there was a little bit of variability between the bottles. The 1997 vintage is now deeply coloured with an aroma of toasted honeyed bread and a kerosene like note. The palate was similar, with a refined balance. A very good wine, though I would have preferred it slightly younger and fresher in this case. 86 points.

Website: http://www.grosset.com.au

Trevor Jones Wicked Witch Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

While this is not a review of a Barossa shiraz, this wine was tasted blind and certainly had an unmistakeable richness and intensity that I associate with the Barossa Valley. Is it terroir? Maybe (at least in my humble opinion).

Trevor Jones' 2006 cabernet had an aroma of oak, plums and licorice. The palate was full bodied with plummy flavours and length, length and more length. This wine is not like a left bank Bordeaux and is perhaps a little rich for everyday drinking. I suspect however if it bore a prestigious left bank label it would be declared as quite an amazing wine from an amazing vintage. An excellent wine and great value. 91 points.

Website: www.kellermeister.com.au
Price: $65
Abv: 14.5%

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2008

From viticultural obscurity outside of Canberra, Clonakilla has quickly turned into one of Australia's icon wine producers, and their shiraz viognier has become one of Australia's leading wines.

I recently tasted the 2008 shiraz viognier in a blind line up. It had a distinctive aroma of apricots and rather young, fresh fruit. The palate had notes of plums, with good length and peppery overtones. It improved, showing greater depth, the longer it sat on the table. An excellent wine.  90 points.

Website: www.clonakilla.com.au

Vincent Bouzereau Premier Cru Les Charmes 2002

Mersault is one of the larger villages in Burgundy, and according to Clive Coates, produces almost as much white wine as the other communes put together.  It is situated here:


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This wine was the pick of the bracket, and not the most expensive wine either. It had an aroma of classic flint and citrus.  The palate revealed very good length (more than 10 seconds) and citrus notes.  Very good indeed.  89+ points.

Source: retail

Price: $120

Henri Boillot Premier Cru Les Baudines 2004

This wine was not dissimilar to the Gagnard-Delagrange "Morgeout" wine in style, but perhaps a slightly better wine.  It had a minerally aroma of piquant fruit, with acidity and a bit of length on the palate. 85 to 86 points.

Source: retail
Price: $200

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1996

This icon of Australian semillon was tasted blind. It had a golden colour with an aroma of peaches and an intense oily, nutty flavour that was very distinctive. The palate was also distinctively nutty, but maybe lacked a little length. A good effort. 84 points.

Paul Pillot Premier Cru Les Champs Gains 2004

This wine was one of the stronger performing wines of the white Burgundy bracket, with an aroma of classic flint and warm citrus, verging on tropical notes.  The palate had 5 to 10 seconds (or more) of length.  Not dissimilar to the newer "more refined" Australian style chardonnays.  87+ points.

Source: retail
Price: $145

Fontaine Gagnard Premier Cru La Boudriotte 2002

This wine had an aroma of straw and soft flint, with ok length and a pleasant palate.  Commendable.  85 points.

Source: retail
Price: $145

Gagnard Delagrange Premier Cru Morgeot 2002

The 2002 Gagnard Delagrange Premier Cru "Morgeot" had a rather piquant aroma of flint and smoke, with a palate with nice length, acidity and citrus flavours.  84 to 85 points.

De Bortoli Gulf Station Shiraz Viognier 2006

An aroma of plums and apricot flowers. The palate had a spiced apricot fruitbread note. This is quite a tasty wine with soft length and noticeable acidity. 14%av.  84 points.

Source: cellar door
Website: http://www.debortoli.com.au/

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2005

Mount Langi Ghiran's Billi Billi is the sort of reliable and well priced wine I revert to when confronted with plain (or eyewatering) restaurant wine lists. The 2005 had an aroma of mint, eucalyptus and pepper. On the palate, it was rather plain initially - a surprise that was quickly addressed by my dawning realisation that it was 10c outside. With warmth, a peppery palate emerged with some length. I would drink this up if you have bottles left. 83 points.

Source: cellar door

Website: http://www.langi.com.au/

Paringa Estate Peninsula Shiraz 2006

I started writing notes on this Paringa Estate wine, thinking that my tasting notes looked more appropriate to a shiraz than a pinot noir.  Closer inspection of the bottle of course revealed that I was in fact drinking shiraz and had wrongly assumed that Paringa = pinot noir.  Embarassment saved (well sort of), here are my thoughts: this wine wasn't bad.  It had an aroma of herbs and stalks, while the palate had notes of plums, pepper, graphite and crushed rocks with evident acidity.  83 points.

Website: http://www.paringaestate.com.au/

Mitchelton Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

This 21 year old wine from an ostensibly modest source made me wonder why I search so hard for good Bordeaux.  Were this wine tasted blind, I would certainly have mistaken it for a grand cru, and a good one at that.  It held its age effortlessly, and had a Bordeaux like aroma of cassis.  The palate had notes of sweet fruit and considerable length.  A truly excellent wine.  95 points.

Website: http://www.mitchelton.com.au/

Charles Melton Nine Popes Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2007

Charles Melton seem to produce good, flavoursome and well made Barossa grenache shiraz mourvedre (the blend this year is about 50/50 shiraz and grenache, with a touch of mourvedre).  This wine had an aroma of plums, and a palate with notes of plums, pepper and substantial length (10 seconds plus).  Very good.  88 to 89 points (and possibly higher). 

Source: restaurant
Website: http://www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au/
For another view, see: http://australianwinejournal.blogspot.com/2010/07/charles-melton-nine-popes-2007.html

Parker Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Proving the reasonably dependable nature of Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon, this wine (tasted after the Flametree Cabernet Merlot 2008) had a pleasant aroma of blackcurrants and a similar palate though acidity was evident.  I think I am starting to agree with Andrew Jefford that maybe some Coonawarra wines are too acidified.  83 points.

Source: restaurant

Website: http://www.parkercoonawarraestate.com.au/

Frogmore Creek Iced Riesling 2008

This wine rather reminded me of the aroma of a glass bottled lime cordial that we had during the 1980s and is probably still available today.  Anyway, here's the review: An aroma of limes, and intensely sweet palate with lime and some spritz.  84 to 85 points.